The road is dramatic and winds around precarious edges of bottomless chasms and up endless steep hairpin turns to higher alpine forests of pine, fir, oak, flowering rhododendrons and magnolias, past tea plantations and pretty hillside towns with wooden houses built on stilts, painted turquoise and blue, perched on the side of mountains.
....Pelling (2,058 m) is fast becoming a popular tourist destination, but is still a quiet town perched on the edge of a mountain, with some of the best views of the Kanchendzonga range in Sikkim. I’m staying in Upper Pelling at the Garuda Hotel, a shabby Tibetan place run by Buddhists with great decor and atmosphere.
....Khecheopalri Lake is one of the most revered Buddhist pilgrimage sites and is believed to be an emanation of the goddess Tara. It’s shape looks like her footprint. Magically, the surface of the lake remains clean in spite of it being surrounded by the thick forest.
....I meet the boys for a local cocktail. We settle into the plastic chairs alongside the dirt road and order a ‘tsonga,’ made from fermented millet, served in a fat bamboo glass and drunk through a wooden straw. The fried yak cheese momos and Sikkimese noodle soup are delicious.
....Just before dawn we slip into a small wooden boat and float out on the mighty Ganga. It’s so pleasurable, gently drifting across the water as the city awakens. I can see why devout Hindus refer to Varanasi as ‘Kashi’ – the Luminous One, the City of Light.
....My travels take me along the Ganga, to Manikarnika burning Ghat, the Aghori ashram, and along the Panchakroshi pilgrimage circuit to undercover a sacred city in the shape of a comic mandala.
....Death on the Ganges. The street leads to the largest burning ghat, Manikarnika. Probably all streets lead to Manikarnika as it is the center of the city. There is a saying in Varanasi that the ghats are not there for the city, but the city exists for the ghats.
....Aghor is the easy path - a natural and spontaneous state of consciousness. It’s not a cult or a religion. It’s a state of reality you can experience. Aghor is a tantric practice that removes feelings of fear, hatred, disgust or discrimination. It’s the path of utter love and devotion.
